Make A Challenging Recipe, but Well Worth the Effort!
This recipe adds a delicious smokiness to the sauce grand veneur (or huntsman's sauce) by cold smoking dark chocolate in a cold smoker. This method achieves a superb consistency and adds an extra depth of flavor to this rich venison loin recipe, with the rich, bitter chocolate offsetting the natural sweetness of the meat. Venison bones for the sauce should be available from your butcher, but if they aren't you certainly can use a high quality premade venison stock from your grocer. Also, ask them for help removing the venison sinew too, if required.
Venison, Pumpkin, Passion Fruit and
Smoked Sauce Grand Veneur
Serves 6
Total time: 3 hours
Ingredients
Venison Loin
1 venison loin
butter
salt
Venison Jus
3 1/3 lb of venison bones, chopped (or a high quality prepared Venison stock)
2 shallots, finely sliced
1 sprig of thyme
1 tsp black pepper
1 dash of oil
2 1/2 pints of chicken stock, plus extra to cover
Sauce Grand Veneur
2 1/2 oz of 75% dark chocolate
1 1/2 cups of Madeira
1 1/2 cups of port
3 shallots, finely sliced
1/3 oz of thyme
1 garlic clove, finely chopped or crushed
3 black peppercorns
1 dash of oil
Pomme Souffle
2 large potatoes
vegetable oil, for frying
salt
Pumpkin Confit
2 1/4 lb of pumpkin, Delica variety
7 oz of salted butter, plus a little extra for reheating
4 oz of pumpkin seeds, lightly toasted
1/3 oz of mixed herbs, such as parsley, tarragon and chives
Pumpkin Puree
6 passion fruits
3 1/2 oz of butter
1 pinch of salt
baby basil, to garnish
Equipment
Cold-smoker
Smoking chips
Pressure cooker
Vacuum bags
Bar sealer
Steam oven
Water bath
Blender
Preparation
Begin by placing the chocolate in a smoker, leaving it to cold-smoke for 2 hours
Meanwhile, make a venison jus for the sauce grand veneur. Place a large pan over a high heat with a splash of oil, add the chopped venison bones and cook until caramelized
Add the shallots, thyme and black pepper and allow the shallots to caramelize, then deglaze the pan with 2 cups of the chicken stock and reduce by three-quarters.
Add another 1 pint of stock, reduce again, then repeat again with the remaining 1 pint of stock. Transfer to a pressure cooker, top up with enough extra chicken stock to cover and cook for 45 minutes.
While the venison jus is reducing begin to prepare the sauce grand veneur. Add a little oil to a separate pan and sweat down the shallots with the thyme, garlic and peppercorns. Pour in the Madeira and reduce to a glaze, then add the Port and reduce again
Pass the jus through a fine sieve into a clean pan and reduce down to a sauce-like consistency. Pour out 2 cups and add this to the sauce, then pass the liquid through a fine sieve into a clean pan. Reduce down to a sauce-like consistency and stir in the smoked chocolate until melted. Set aside and keep warm until ready to serve.
Pomme Soufflé
Wash and peel the potatoes before slicing length ways into 6 even slices approximately 1/4 in thick. Pat the slices dry with paper towel.
Fill a pan a quarter full with vegetable oil and heat to 230°F. Fill another pan almost to the top with vegetable oil and heat carefully to 392°F, maintaining the temperatures in both pans.
Add the potato slices to the pan with the 230°F oil and shake constantly until they start to puff up slightly. Transfer the slices one by one into the 392°F oil using spoons or tongs, frying until puffed and golden. Remove and place on paper towels to cool, then wrap in plastic wrap and place in the fridge.
Pumpkin Confit
Peel the pumpkin and cut in half. Scoop out the seeds and sinews, then cut twelve small curved wedges, reserving the rest of the flesh for the purée.
Add the salted butter to a deep pan and place over a moderate heat to melt, not allowing it to burn. Add the pumpkin wedges to the pan and cook in the hot butter for 20 to 30 minutes until soft and fondant-like, then cool and chill until ready to serve.
Remove all sinew from the venison loin, slice into six portions and season well with salt. Seal the portions in vacuum bags and cook in a water bath for 20 to 3o minutes depending on the size of the portions.
Preheat a steam oven to 212°F
Pumpkin Purée
Dice 1 1/3 lb of the remaining pumpkin flesh into small pieces and seal in a vacuum bag with the butter and salt. Place into the steam oven and cook until soft.
Once cooked, transfer the softened pumpkin to a blender and blitz until smooth. Scoop out the seeds from the passion fruit, add to the purée and blend again. Season to taste and set aside.
Venison
Add a few tablespoons of butter to a large frying pan and place over a moderate heat until the butter begins to foam. Remove the venison portions from the vacuum bags and sear in the hot butter until caramelized. Set aside to rest, reserving the juices from the pan.
While the venison is resting, add a little butter to a frying pan and warm through the confit pumpkin wedges. Roughly chop together the toasted pumpkin seeds and mixed herbs to create a rough crumb and spread out on a plate. Remove the pumpkin wedges from the pan and roll in the crumb mixture to coat.
Pomme Soufflé
Heat a pan a quarter filled with oil to 410°F. Remove the potato slices from the fridge and fry in the hot oil, basting in the pan until puffed up and crisp on the outside. Remove from the pan and drain quickly on paper towels, seasoning generously with salt.
Plating/Presentation
Carve the venison portions in half and place two pieces on each plate, arranging two wedges of pumpkin alongside. Add a quenelle of the purée and top with baby basil leaves, then pour over some of the warm sauce grand veneur and finish with the pomme soufflé and a drizzle of pan juices.
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